A warming bowl

Split Pea Soup
Isestrasse Market Hamburg, Germany
Split pea soup is just what you need when the chill goes right through your coat. In the port city of Hamburg last month, it was sunny but cold as I walked through the Isestrasse market in the center of town. German markets in winter boast stands brimming with every variety of cabbage and potato imaginable. There are mobile bakeries, butchers, fishmongers, sausage sellers, and among them, all kinds of eateries. These hearty folks aren't fair-weather vendors, I decided, so I wandered around until I found lunch. I wanted what two bundled up ladies were eating: big bowlfuls of steaming split pea soup laden with plenty of slices of knockwurst in the thick porridge. I approached the counter and used my sparse knowledge of Yiddish to ask for a bowl. That produced lots of laughing from the beefy proprietor, but no soup. I wanted soup and I was sure he would sell me some, if only he understood what I was after. I knew I shouldn't point, but point I did - at the women and their lunch. Success. I took my bowl and settled in beside them, standing in the bracing cold coming off the Baltic Sea, with my bowl set in front of me on a high bistro table. I sipped spoonfuls of the thick, nourishing mixture. The green puree, with its hammy stock and smoked wurst, also had nuggets of sweet carrots. A piece of crusty bread helped soak up every last bit.

Split pea soup
Serves 6

The flavor of this soup improves on standing, but it thickens. To make a day or two in advance, stir water, about 1/4 cup at a time, into the soup before reheating.

3 tablespoons canola oil
1 pound frankfurters or knockwurst, cut into 2-inch slices
1 smoked ham hock ( 1/2 pound) 1 large onion, coarsely chopped
1 pound dried split peas 6 cups water, or more if necessary
3 large carrots, cut into 2-inch pieces
Salt, to taste
1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

1. In a large pot, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the frankfurter or wurst slices and cook, stirring often, for 5 minutes. With a slotted spoon, remove the meat from the pan; set it aside.

2. Add the ham hock and cook, stirring often, for 3 minutes more, to brown the hock on all sides. Remove it from the pan.

3. Add the onion and cook, stirring often, for 3 minutes. Add the split peas, and stir to coat them with the oil. Return the ham hock to the pan.

4. Pour in the water and bring to a boil. Cover the pan and cook the mixture for 10 minutes on medium heat. Remove the lid and use a spoon to skim the foam from the surface of the soup.

5. Reduce the heat to low and add the carrots. Place the cover slightly askew on the pot and simmer for 45 minutes. Stir occasionally to keep the soup from burning on the bottom as it thickens.
6. Remove the lid and add the frankfurter slices. Simmer for 15 minutes more, stirring occasionally, or until the split peas have dissolved into a smooth thick puree.

7. Remove the ham hock and set the meat aside. When it is cool enough to handle, trim the fat from the bone. Cut the meat into strips. Add them to the soup with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil and ladle the soup into bowls.

Crudite Platter with Spicy Miso Dip

If you're hosting or contributing to a party and looking for an appetizer, a crudite platter is always welcome. For years, Americans had a mundane approach to this French tradition by dipping veggie sticks such as carrots and celery into ordinary mayonnaise-based sauces. Raw broccoli and asparagus spears joined the usual suspects, and bowls of Russian dressing were displaced by more complex flavors such as blue cheese or mango salsa. The look changed too. It went from toothpicked vegetables and cheese cubes affixed to heads of cauliflower - and resembling alien spacecraft - to elegant displays on silver platters or earthenware pottery. But still the veggies remained a little ordinary.
This combination offers a variety of taste: bitter radicchio, buttery endive, licorice-laced fennel, crunchy red or green cabbages, and peppery radishes make a colorful display of vegetables with character. The vegetables are cut into wedges, each with a piece of core intact, which helps them hold their natural shape and provides an easy pick-up spot.
For the dipping sauce, combine aka miso, the dark reddish-brown salty bean paste, with sriracha, the fiery Southeast Asian chili sauce. These are softened by honey and apple juice. Sesame oil gives the dip a toasty taste with a velvety finish. You haven't done any heavy lifting, and your dish may be the hit of the party. --DEBRA SAMUELS

Ingredients: Serves 8

VEGETABLES

1 small head radicchio
2 small Belgian endives
1 small red or green cabbage
1 small bulb fresh fennel, stalks and hard layer removed
1 bunch radishes, green stems intact

Directions:

1. Halve the radicchio lengthwise without removing the core. Then cut thin wedges, slicing through the core and leaving it intact. Rinse under cold water and pat dry with paper towels. Transfer the wedges to a serving platter. Do the same with the endives, cabbage, and fennel.

2. Wipe the radishes with a wet paper towel. Cut all but 1 inch of the green stems. Slice the radishes in half lengthwise so each piece has some stem. Quarter large radishes. Transfer to the platter.


DIP

1/2 cup dark aka miso (or regular tawny-color miso)
1/4 cup apple juice
1 tablespoon honey
2 tablespoons sesame oil
1 tablespoon sriracha hot sauce, or to taste

Directions:

1. In a bowl, whisk together the miso, apple juice, honey, sesame oil, and hot sauce.

2. Transfer to a small bowl and serve with the vegetables. Adapted from Taekyung Chung

Stashing cooked rice

Watching squirrels gathering and stashing nuts for the winter reminds me of Japanese and Korean friends filling their rice cookers to maximum capacity to make small packets of cooked rice for the freezer. When it's time to eat, they microwave the rice until it's steaming hot.

Recently, a Korean guest did just that. She made a mixture of short-grain white and brown rice, and after it was cooked, added black beans (at home she would have used black soy beans). With a salad and soup it is a perfect light meal with little effort.

Short grain rices work best because they are sticky and hold together when packed. The cooking methods are completely different than the long grain varieties. Cook the grains separately because brown takes twice the water and twice the time of white.

When the rice is done, stir both together, add canned black beans, and freeze the mixture in plastic wrap sprinkled with a little salt. Many Asian cooks don't add salt to the cooking water because it detracts from the delicacy of the rice. The little packets will be welcome on a busy day as a nutritious side dish for supper or a quick lunch at the office. When it's time to forage, just open the freezer door.

Brown and white rice with black beans

Makes about 9 cups or enough to serve 9

To achieve white rice and brown rice with perfect textures, cook them separately. If you prefer to serve them separately, you'll have about 6 cups of white (to serve 6) and 3 cups of brown (to serve 3).

WHITE RICE

2 cups short-grain white rice
2 cups water

Directions:

1. Put the rice into a large mixing bowl and set it in a clean sink. Run cold water into the bowl, and with your hand, swish the rice around, then carefully drain the water into the sink. Repeat this about 5 times until the water runs clear. Fill the bowl of rice with water to cover - about 3 cups. Set aside for 20 minutes; the rice will become white and plump. Pour the rice through a strainer and set it aside again for 10 minutes.

2. In a medium saucepan combine the rice and the 2 cups of water. Cover with a lid. Cook the rice on medium-high heat for 10 minutes. Turn the heat down to low and simmer for 10 minutes or until the rice is tender (total cooking time is 20 minutes).

3. Turn the heat off and let the rice sit for 10 minutes more.

BROWN RICE

1 cup short-grain brown rice
2 cups water

Directions:

1. Put the rice into a large mixing bowl and set it in a clean sink. Run cold water into the bowl, and with your hand, swish the rice around, then carefully drain the water into the sink. Repeat this about 3 times until the water runs clear. Fill the bowl of rice with water to cover - about 2 cups. Let soak for 20 minutes. Pour the rice through a strainer and set it aside for 10 minutes.

2. In a medium saucepan combine the rice and the 2 cups of water. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to low, and cover with a tight-fitting lid. Cook for 50 minutes or until the rice is tender.

3. Turn the heat off and let the rice sit for 10 minutes more.

BEANS

1 can (15 ounces) black beans, rinsed and drained
1 tablespoon kosher salt

Directions:

1. In a large bowl, combine the brown and white rice. With a spatula or wooden spoon, fold them together, taking care not to mash them. Add the black beans and mix well to distribute the beans evenly throughout the rice.

2. Tear off an 8-inch square of plastic wrap. Set it on the counter. Sprinkle the surface with salt. Lightly wet a 1-cup measure. Fill the cup with rice and set it on the wrap. Bring one end of the wrap over the rice, pressing lightly, to form a thick pancake. Continue wrapping until the rice is enclosed. Repeat with the remaining rice (each packet yields 1 serving). Freeze them in a large zipper bag.

3. To reheat: Without defrosting the packets, unwrap as many servings as you need and place in a large microwave-safe bowl. Cover with parchment paper. Microwave on high for about 4 minutes or until rice is heated through. Break into the center with a fork to make sure it is hot. If necessary, cover and microwave for an additional 1 to 2 minutes.

Debra Samuels

Healthy and Cool Tofu Sandwich

Tofu, the sensational block packed with protein that is popular in Korean, Japanese, and Chinese cuisines, is no longer exclusively available in Asian markets. Unfortunately, while the widely distributed brands like Nasoya are good, they don't have the same strikingly fresh taste as tofu from Asian grocers.

When you go to pick out a variety, soft or silken tofu is good for soups or eating in its pure state with just a bit of soy sauce and grated ginger. Firmer varieties are best for stir fries and for using in dishes where the white block is cut and reshaped, as it is here.

A towering version of this tofu sandwich recipe was created by a Japanese cooking teacher for a class on contemporary Japanese cuisine. In this recipe, the tofu is cut into 2-inch rounds with a cookie cutter, then layered with chopped smoked salmon and coarsely mashed avocado. On top, a shrimp half and some edamame are the garnish.

The sandwich includes two rounds of tofu, rather than the tower of the original recipe. The finished dish is beautiful, healthy, and cooling, with a complex set of creamy, salty, and buttery-rich flavors. Whisk soy sauce and olive oil to make a vinaigrette that blends elements of Eastern and Western cuisines.

Instead of a cookie cutter, you can also use a small can. Cut off the top and bottom and press down any jagged edges with the back of a spoon. The can will act as a mold to hold the
ingredients together as you stack the intriguing layers

Recipe
Makes 2

Use Nasoya or House brand tofu (the firm variety).

1 block (14 ounces) firm tofu
1/4 pound smoked salmon
4 tablespoons olive oil, or more to taste
3 tablespoons lemon juice
Salt and pepper, to taste
1 ripe avocado
1/4 cup shelled fresh or frozen edamame
1 cooked shrimp, sliced in half along the back
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 teaspoon sugar

Directions:

1. Have on hand a deep 2-inch plain round cookie cutter or any small can about the same size.

2. Place the tofu on a plate and let sit for 20 minutes to drain the excess liquid. Tip off the liquid. With the cutter, use a twisting motion to slowly cut into the tofu, making one large tofu cylinder. With a sharp knife, cut that cylinder in half horizontally. Cut each half in half again to make 4 circles.

3. With a chef's knife, chop the salmon finely. In a bowl, combine the salmon, 1 tablespoon of the olive oil, 1 tablespoon of the lemon juice and several generous twists of pepper. If the mixture seems dry, drizzle it with a little more olive oil; set aside.

4. Cut the avocado in half and remove the pit. Scoop out the flesh and place on a cutting board. With a chef's knife, chop the avocado.

5. In a medium bowl, combine the avocado with 1 tablespoon olive oil, 1 tablespoon lemon juice, salt, and pepper.

6. Place 1 tofu circle into the cutter. With a spoon, add a 1/2-inch layer of the salmon mixture. Press it evenly with the back of the spoon. Repeat with the avocado mixture. Top with a circle of tofu. Carefully lift the biscuit cutter from the stack. Slip a small metal spatula under the sandwich and transfer to a plate. Repeat with remaining ingredients. (Serve leftover salmon and avocado on crackers.)

7. Bring a saucepan of water to a boil, drop in the edamame beans. Cook for 1 minute. Drain, rinse with cold water, and pat dry with paper towels.

8. Garnish the sandwiches with the edamame and a shrimp half.

9. In a small bowl, whisk the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil with the remaining 1 tablespoon lemon juice, soy sauce, and sugar. Drizzle a little of the dressing on each sandwich and serve the rest separately.

Strawberry napoleon, deconstructed

Some desserts, like one I was served recently in Italy, are stunning on the plate. In this case, triangles of puff pastry were set into a pool of vanilla custard sauce. Tiny strawberries were strewn around the dish, which was decorated with zig zags of chocolate.

In fact, this impressive confection is a deconstructed napoleon, the multilayered classic made with three rectangles of puff pastry sandwiched with pastry cream, often with fruit, too. But when you eat this typically French sweet, your fork moves through the top layer of pastry, sending the cream oozing in all directions.

So the modern Italian version was beautiful and practical. You can re-create the dish using frozen puff pastry cut into squares and making vanilla custard sauce.

The sauce can be tricky. Use a heavy bottomed saucepan and don't leave the stove. A few extra seconds on the heat can give you a curdled mass. If that happens, quickly pour the custard into a blender and whir it. That may bring the sauce back.

On the plate, you'll need a spoon to scrape up every bit of sauce. Unless you want to lick the plates. We couldn't do that at the restaurant in Italy. But home is another matter.

Recipe
Serves 6

1 sheet Pepperidge Farm frozen puff pastry (still frozen)
1 1/2 cups whole milk
1 vanilla bean, split or 1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract
4 egg yolks
1/3 cup granulated sugar
Extra granulated sugar (for sprinkling)
1 cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons confectioners' sugar
2 tablespoons Marsala wine or sherry
1 pint fresh strawberries, hulled and halved (or quartered if large)

Directions:

1. Set the oven at 400 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Transfer the pastry to a cutting board. Set aside for 15 minutes.

2. Make 4 vertical cuts and 4 horizontal cuts in the pastry to form 25 2-inch squares. Separate the squares and return them to the sheet. Bake them for 12 minutes or until browned. Leave to cool.

3. In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, combine the milk and vanilla bean, if using. Heat over medium heat just until it is scalded. Turn off the heat and let the pan sit for 5 minutes. Remove the vanilla bean. With the tip of a knife, scrape the seeds into the milk.

4. In a bowl with a wooden spoon, stir the yolks and sugar. Slowly pour half the milk into the egg mixture, stirring. Return the egg mixture to the remaining milk in the saucepan. Cook the custard on medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens enough to coat the back of the spoon. The mixture should not boil.

5. If using vanilla extract, add it now. Sprinkle the custard with extra granulated sugar to prevent a skin from forming. Leave to cool. Cover and refrigerate until cold.

6. In an electric mixer, beat the cream and confectioners' sugar until the cream forms soft peaks. Add the Marsala or sherry and continue beating until the cream is stiff. Fold half the cream into the custard sauce.

7. Pour a spoonful of sauce into each of 6 shallow plates, then add 3 squares of pastry, and some berries. Repeat the layers, garnishing with cream.

Salmon Mousse with Sour Cream Dill Sauce

If you're hosting a crowd for a graduation party or wedding shower, you might want to turn the oven off and keep things light. Stash away the stew and lasagna recipes for fall -- it will be here soon enough. A flavorful fresh salmon mousse makes an elegant addition to the buffet table or offer it as a spread during the cocktail hour.

Similar recipes to this have been around for decades and they often call for canned salmon, which was all that many cooks could buy at the time. Fresh salmon gives the mousse a subtler flavor. If you prefer canned salmon, it has to be scraped of its dark skin and picked over for bones. A skinless, boneless salmon fillet can be microwaved with lemon juice in less than 10 minutes.

There is just enough gelatin in the mousse to make the mixture set without becoming rubbery. Beat heavy cream and fold it into the salmon puree for an airy texture. Then pour it into a mold before chilling.

In the '50s, the mold you used would have been fish-shaped, and once turned out, slices of olives would form the eyes, thin slices of cucumber the scales, and dill fronds a tail. Today, use any ring or loaf pan, or individual molds, and skip the hokey fish theme. But scatter similar garnishes -- sliced cucumbers, quartered cherry tomatoes, and fresh dill -- around the turned-out mousse.
Add a basket of sliced French bread and plain English crackers. To complete the buffet, make a crunchy grain salad, such as tabbouleh; steamed asparagus, drizzled with olive oil and lemon juice and served at room temperature; and deviled eggs. Arrange your menu on platters, tuck it all into the fridge, then hang up your apron, and join your own party.

Recipe
Serves 8

MOUSSE

1 1/4 pounds skinless, boneless salmon
6 tablespoons cold water
1 envelope unflavored gelatin
1/2 cup boiling water
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1/2 cup mayonnaise
1 teaspoon hot sauce
1/4 teaspoon paprika
1 tablespoon grated onion
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon capers
1/2 cup heavy cream, beaten until stiff

Directions:

1. Have on hand one mold, loaf pan, or individual molds (total capacity 5 cups).

2. In a microwave-safe dish, place the salmon and 4 tablespoons of the water. Cover with parchment paper and microwave on high for 8 minutes. If the salmon is not firm, microwave for 2 minutes more. With a slotted metal spatula, remove the salmon from the dish.

3. In a bowl, sprinkle the gelatin over the remaining 2 tablespoons cold water. Set aside for 5 minutes.

4. Pour the boiling water over the gelatin mixture and stir until it dissolves completely.

5. In a food processor, combine the gelatin mixture, lemon, mayonnaise, hot sauce, paprika, onion, and salt. Pulse several times.

6. Add half the salmon mixture and pulse until smooth. Add the remaining salmon with the capers. Pulse several times until complete ly blended. Transfer to a bowl.

7. Stir 1 large spoonful of the whipped cream into the salmon mixture. Fold in the remaining cream.

8. Moisten a paper towel and wring it out. Wipe the inside of your mold or molds. Add the mixture to the mold, cover, and refrigerate for several hours or over night.


SAUCE AND GARNISH

1 1/2 cups sour cream
1 tablespoon lemon juice
2 teaspoons sugar
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill
1/2 pint cherry tomatoes, quartered
1 pickling cucumber, thinly sliced
Extra fresh dill leaves (for garnish)

Directions:

1. In a small bowl, whisk the sour cream and lemon juice until the mixture is smooth.

2. Add the sugar, salt, and dill. Cover and refrigerate.

3. To unmold the salmon mousse, run a thin-bladed knife carefully between the mousse and the mold. Invert a plate onto the mold. With your hand on top of the plate, flip the mold and plate over.

4. Dampen a dish towel with hot water; wring it dry. Place the hot towel on the mold for several seconds to loosen the contents. Give the mold a gentle shake. You should hear the mousse release. Lift the mold from the mousse.

5. Garnish with dill, cherry tomatoes, and cucumbers. Serve with French bread and sour cream sauce.

Brazilian breakfast

When Sandra Silva, a native of Sao Paulo, Brazil, has a crowd for brunch at her home, she serves a dish she calls Café Brasil or Brazilian breakfast. Instead of laboriously making eggs individually, like a home-based short-order cook, she has perfected a dish that can be prepared all at once for four, slipped into the oven, and then served piping hot. And there's drama from egg whites whipped into a meringue and then lightly toasted. Ordinary Sunday brunch becomes a fiesta.

First Silva slices French bread, then it is toasted and lightly buttered. A slice of cheese just covers the bread. The eggs are separated, and the whites are quickly whipped into a meringue and mounded onto the toast. The yolk stays protected in its half shell. With the back of a spoon, Silva hollows out a little indentation in the meringue and carefully sets the yolk into its airy cradle. Then she lines four, or even a dozen, onto a baking sheet and bakes until the meringue is light brown, about 12 minutes, before placing the hot breakfast on individual plates. Serve with morsels of crispy bacon. As your guests slide their forks into the yolk, it bursts into yellow rays -- just like the morning sunshine.—

Recipe

Serves 4

4 eggs, separated
1 1/2 -inch thick slices of French bread, toasted
Butter (for toast)
4 slices of cheese (cheddar or Muenster )
8 slices of bacon
Salt and pepper

Directions:

1. Set the oven at 350 degrees . Have on hand a large mixing bowl. Carefully break an egg in half and tip egg white into the mixing bowl. Keep the yolk in its half shell, propped against a cutting board, until ready to use. Repeat with remaining eggs.

2. Spread butter onto warm toast. Place toast on a baking sheet.

3. Place one slice of cheese on each piece of toast.

4. With a n electric hand beater or wire whisk, whip the egg whites into peaks.

5. With a spoon or rubber spatula scoop out one quarter of the meringue and mound it on top of the cheese. Spread the meringue all around to cover the surface of the cheese, keeping a slightly higher mound in the middle.

6. With the back of a spoon, make an indentation into the center of the meringue just deep enough to hold the yolk.

7. Slip an egg yolk into each "cradle."

8. Place the baking sheet into the oven for 12 minutes, or until the meringue is lightly browned and the egg has set. Cooking time also depends on how loose or firm you like your eggs.

9. While the eggs are baking, place bacon slices into a skillet and fry until crispy, about 5 minutes. Drain on paper towels and cut into small squares.

10. To serve: divide the bacon among the 4 plates. Set a baked meringue toast on each plate. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and garnish with a few cherry tomatoes.

Adapted from Sandra Silva