Healthy and Cool Tofu Sandwich

Tofu, the sensational block packed with protein that is popular in Korean, Japanese, and Chinese cuisines, is no longer exclusively available in Asian markets. Unfortunately, while the widely distributed brands like Nasoya are good, they don't have the same strikingly fresh taste as tofu from Asian grocers.

When you go to pick out a variety, soft or silken tofu is good for soups or eating in its pure state with just a bit of soy sauce and grated ginger. Firmer varieties are best for stir fries and for using in dishes where the white block is cut and reshaped, as it is here.

A towering version of this tofu sandwich recipe was created by a Japanese cooking teacher for a class on contemporary Japanese cuisine. In this recipe, the tofu is cut into 2-inch rounds with a cookie cutter, then layered with chopped smoked salmon and coarsely mashed avocado. On top, a shrimp half and some edamame are the garnish.

The sandwich includes two rounds of tofu, rather than the tower of the original recipe. The finished dish is beautiful, healthy, and cooling, with a complex set of creamy, salty, and buttery-rich flavors. Whisk soy sauce and olive oil to make a vinaigrette that blends elements of Eastern and Western cuisines.

Instead of a cookie cutter, you can also use a small can. Cut off the top and bottom and press down any jagged edges with the back of a spoon. The can will act as a mold to hold the
ingredients together as you stack the intriguing layers

Recipe
Makes 2

Use Nasoya or House brand tofu (the firm variety).

1 block (14 ounces) firm tofu
1/4 pound smoked salmon
4 tablespoons olive oil, or more to taste
3 tablespoons lemon juice
Salt and pepper, to taste
1 ripe avocado
1/4 cup shelled fresh or frozen edamame
1 cooked shrimp, sliced in half along the back
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 teaspoon sugar

Directions:

1. Have on hand a deep 2-inch plain round cookie cutter or any small can about the same size.

2. Place the tofu on a plate and let sit for 20 minutes to drain the excess liquid. Tip off the liquid. With the cutter, use a twisting motion to slowly cut into the tofu, making one large tofu cylinder. With a sharp knife, cut that cylinder in half horizontally. Cut each half in half again to make 4 circles.

3. With a chef's knife, chop the salmon finely. In a bowl, combine the salmon, 1 tablespoon of the olive oil, 1 tablespoon of the lemon juice and several generous twists of pepper. If the mixture seems dry, drizzle it with a little more olive oil; set aside.

4. Cut the avocado in half and remove the pit. Scoop out the flesh and place on a cutting board. With a chef's knife, chop the avocado.

5. In a medium bowl, combine the avocado with 1 tablespoon olive oil, 1 tablespoon lemon juice, salt, and pepper.

6. Place 1 tofu circle into the cutter. With a spoon, add a 1/2-inch layer of the salmon mixture. Press it evenly with the back of the spoon. Repeat with the avocado mixture. Top with a circle of tofu. Carefully lift the biscuit cutter from the stack. Slip a small metal spatula under the sandwich and transfer to a plate. Repeat with remaining ingredients. (Serve leftover salmon and avocado on crackers.)

7. Bring a saucepan of water to a boil, drop in the edamame beans. Cook for 1 minute. Drain, rinse with cold water, and pat dry with paper towels.

8. Garnish the sandwiches with the edamame and a shrimp half.

9. In a small bowl, whisk the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil with the remaining 1 tablespoon lemon juice, soy sauce, and sugar. Drizzle a little of the dressing on each sandwich and serve the rest separately.

Strawberry napoleon, deconstructed

Some desserts, like one I was served recently in Italy, are stunning on the plate. In this case, triangles of puff pastry were set into a pool of vanilla custard sauce. Tiny strawberries were strewn around the dish, which was decorated with zig zags of chocolate.

In fact, this impressive confection is a deconstructed napoleon, the multilayered classic made with three rectangles of puff pastry sandwiched with pastry cream, often with fruit, too. But when you eat this typically French sweet, your fork moves through the top layer of pastry, sending the cream oozing in all directions.

So the modern Italian version was beautiful and practical. You can re-create the dish using frozen puff pastry cut into squares and making vanilla custard sauce.

The sauce can be tricky. Use a heavy bottomed saucepan and don't leave the stove. A few extra seconds on the heat can give you a curdled mass. If that happens, quickly pour the custard into a blender and whir it. That may bring the sauce back.

On the plate, you'll need a spoon to scrape up every bit of sauce. Unless you want to lick the plates. We couldn't do that at the restaurant in Italy. But home is another matter.

Recipe
Serves 6

1 sheet Pepperidge Farm frozen puff pastry (still frozen)
1 1/2 cups whole milk
1 vanilla bean, split or 1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract
4 egg yolks
1/3 cup granulated sugar
Extra granulated sugar (for sprinkling)
1 cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons confectioners' sugar
2 tablespoons Marsala wine or sherry
1 pint fresh strawberries, hulled and halved (or quartered if large)

Directions:

1. Set the oven at 400 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Transfer the pastry to a cutting board. Set aside for 15 minutes.

2. Make 4 vertical cuts and 4 horizontal cuts in the pastry to form 25 2-inch squares. Separate the squares and return them to the sheet. Bake them for 12 minutes or until browned. Leave to cool.

3. In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, combine the milk and vanilla bean, if using. Heat over medium heat just until it is scalded. Turn off the heat and let the pan sit for 5 minutes. Remove the vanilla bean. With the tip of a knife, scrape the seeds into the milk.

4. In a bowl with a wooden spoon, stir the yolks and sugar. Slowly pour half the milk into the egg mixture, stirring. Return the egg mixture to the remaining milk in the saucepan. Cook the custard on medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens enough to coat the back of the spoon. The mixture should not boil.

5. If using vanilla extract, add it now. Sprinkle the custard with extra granulated sugar to prevent a skin from forming. Leave to cool. Cover and refrigerate until cold.

6. In an electric mixer, beat the cream and confectioners' sugar until the cream forms soft peaks. Add the Marsala or sherry and continue beating until the cream is stiff. Fold half the cream into the custard sauce.

7. Pour a spoonful of sauce into each of 6 shallow plates, then add 3 squares of pastry, and some berries. Repeat the layers, garnishing with cream.