Debra's Seasonal Cooking Articles in The Boston Globe "Seasons"

Stick with ribs for these two tasty meals

2010-06-24T09:34:00.008-04:00

By Debra Samuels, May 5, 2010

Chinese spare ribs are restaurant food, and usually gnaw-the-bone good. You can also make delicious ribs at home, where you don’t have to worry about table manners. There are three cuts of ribs: meaty pork ribs, sometimes called St. Louis-style; baby-back pork ribs that have less meat; and country-style ribs that may take longer to cook and aren’t traditionally used in Chinese recipes. St. Louis and baby back both come in racks. I prefer the meaty St. Louis; butchers will cut the ribs into individual bones, which is what you want. Marinate them for several hours in a soy and hoisin mixture with ketchup, then roast them in a hot oven. The marinade turns into a glazy sauce with a deep reddish tone (because of ketchup). One drawback to this foolproof method: The sweet sauce and high oven temperature make everything stick like crazy to your pan, so line it with heavy duty foil. Add gloriously green baby bok choy and a bowl of rice to turn this classic appetizer into a main course.

Stash away a few ribs and some of the bok choy for bowls of pork-noodle ramen. Add scallions and a few slices of ginger to a good quality beef broth, then simmer the ribs in it to heat them through and flavor the soup. Serve the broth with pork sliced off the bone, curly ramen noodles, sometimes called chuka soba, the bok choy, and a handful of crunchy bean sprouts. Recycle all those take-out menus, toss that packaged ramen, and do it yourself.

RECIPES

Chinese-style pork spare ribs
Serves 4 with leftovers

You can use this sauce for Chinese roast pork. Cut a pork tenderloin into two long strips; follow the marinating and cooking instructions below.


5 1/2	pounds St. Louis-style pork spare ribs (about 16 ribs separated)
1/4	cup soy sauce
2	tablespoons hoisin sauce
1/2	cup sugar
1/4	cup red or white wine or sake
1/4	cup ketchup
6	scallions, cut into 4-inch lengths and smashed
6	cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1/4	cup water

1. Have on hand 2 half-gallon zipper plastic bags. Divide the ribs between them.

2. In a large bowl combine the soy and hoisin sauces, sugar, wine or sake, ketchup, scallions, and garlic. Mix well. Stir in the water. Pour half the sauce into each bag. Carefully press the air out of the bags, then close the zippers. Rub the sauce around all the ribs. Refrigerate for several hours, turning once to redistribute the sauce.

3. Set the oven at 450 degrees.

4. About 15 minutes before cooking, remove the ribs from the refrigerator. Line a roasting pan with heavy duty foil. Place the ribs and marinade in the pan, leaving space between them.

5. Cook the ribs for 35 minutes, turning every 15 minutes. Cut into the meat down to the bone to make sure there is no bright pink color. If they are burning, turn the heat down to 425 degrees. Place ribs on a platter and brush any cooking juices onto the ribs. (Set aside 4 ribs for the ramen.) Serve with white rice and bok choy. Debra Samuels. Adapted from Jeanne Tahnk.

Pork-noodle ramen
Serves 4

Curly ramen noodles (chuka soba), come dried in compact squares or nests. You can also use 1 pound of thin fresh Chinese noodles in this Japanese dish.


3	cups beef broth
2	cups water
2	tablespoons soy sauce
4	scallions, cut into 4-inch lengths and smashed
1	piece (1 inch) fresh ginger, cut into 4 slices
4	cooked pork spare ribs
2	teaspoons sesame oil
	Salt and pepper, to taste
4	pieces cooked bok choy, each halved lengthwise
2	cups fresh bean sprouts (mung bean)
12	ounces (4 nests) ramen noodles (chuka soba)
	Extra sesame oil (for sprinkling)

1. In a soup pot over medium heat, combine beef broth, water, soy sauce, scallions, and ginger. Bring to a boil. Add the pork ribs and lower the heat. Simmer for 10 minutes or until pork is heated through. Remove ribs, scallions, and ginger and transfer to a bowl.

2. Add sesame oil, salt, and pepper to the soup. Turn the heat to low.

3. Slice meat off the bones; discard bones, scallions, and ginger.

4. Bring a large saucepan of water to a boil. Add the bok choy and cook for 30 seconds. Use a slotted spoon to lift it out and transfer to a plate. Add the bean sprouts to the water; cook 1 minute. With the spoon transfer the sprouts to a bowl; sprinkle with salt.

5. Add ramen to boiling water and cook 3 to 5 minutes or until noodles are tender but still have bite.

6. Drain the noodles and rinse with warm water. With a scissors snip the noodles in half. Divide the noodles among 4 deep bowls.

7. Arrange the pork, bok choy, and bean sprouts on the noodles. Ladle soup around the noodles. Sprinkle with sesame oil. Serve with chopsticks and a spoon.

Making the most of tender rib-eye

2010-02-09T09:52:00.007-05:00

Open with classic roast beef, then a hearty shepherd’s pie

December 30, 2009

The classic pairing of roast beef and potatoes can go from Sunday night supper to something special - depending on the cut of meat you use. For a New Year’s Eve celebration, a rib-eye roast, which has plenty of flavor for a relatively moderate price ($7.50 per pound at my local supermarket), makes a nice presentation. “The Joy of Cooking’’ refers to this and other tender cuts as “Sunday dinner roast beef.’’ Turn your elegant leftovers into a hearty shepherd’s pie.

Rib-eye comes from the area along the animal’s spine that doesn’t get much of a workout, hence its tenderness. A little marbling contributes to the good taste. Rub the meat with salt, pepper, and paprika a few hours before roasting, and baste the roast with tomato or vegetable juice, which mixes with the pan juices and cooks into a light but meaty sauce with none of the fuss of thickening. For the potatoes, make a creamy cloud of golden mash; add steamed green beans or broccoli tossed with a little butter and lemon juice as a side dish.

The extra pound of meat in the roasting pan, more potatoes then you need in the mash, and lots of veggies in the steamer are ideal for shepherd’s pie. This meat and potato casserole, traditionally made with lamb, is the perfect comforting, hot dish to feed your bleary-eyed New Year’s guests.

RECIPES

Roast beef
Serves 6 with leftover


1	boneless beef rib-eye roast (5 pounds)
2	teaspoons kosher salt
1/2	teaspoon freshly ground pepper
2	teaspoons paprika
1	large onion, thinly sliced
2	carrots, cut into 3-inch pieces
2	stalks celery, cut into 3-inch pieces
3	cans (8 ounces each) vegetable or tomato juice
1	cup water

1. Remove the meat from the refrigerator 30 minutes before cooking.
2. Set the oven at 375 degrees. Have on hand a small roasting pan.
3. Rub the meat with salt, pepper, and paprika. Sprinkle half the onion in the pan with the carrots and celery. Spread the remaining onion on top of the roast.
4. In a bowl, mix the vegetable or tomato juice and water. Pour 1/2 cup over the meat and 2 cups over the vegetables in the pan.
5. Roast the meat in the middle of the oven for 30 minutes. Spoon the juices in the pan over the meat.
6. Turn the oven temperature down to 350 degrees. Continue roasting, basting every 30 minutes, for 1 3/4 to 2 hours or until a meat thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the meat registers 130 degrees for medium-rare meat, 140 degrees for medium, 170 degrees for well done. (Total cooking time is 2 to 2 1/2 hours.) During roasting, if the pan seems dry, add the remaining tomato mixture.
7. Transfer the meat to a cutting board and let it rest in a warm place for 10 minutes.
8. Strain the roasting juices into a saucepan (save the onions, carrots, and celery for the pie); taste the juices for seasoning and add more salt and pepper, if you like. Reheat the juices and let them simmer gently to thicken slightly. Cut the meat into 1/4-inch slices and spoon the cooking juices over the meat.

Shepherd's Pie - Serves 6


	Olive oil (for the pan)
2	tablespoons olive oil
2	cups cooked vegetables, coarsely chopped
	Onions, carrots, and celery from roasting the beef, coarsely chopped
4	cups cooked roast beef, coarsely chopped
2	teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
2	tablespoons ketchup
1	teaspoon dried thyme
	Salt and pepper, to taste
1/2	to 1 cup leftover cooking juices, or more if you have some
3	cups mashed potatoes
2	tablespoons butter, cut into 8 pieces

1. Set the oven at 375 degrees. Oil a 9-by-13-inch baking dish.
2. In a large skillet over medium heat, heat the oil. Cook all the vegetables, stirring constantly, for 1 minute. Add the beef, Worcestershire sauce, ketchup, thyme, salt, and pepper. Cook, stirring, 1 minute more.
3. Add the cooking juices (up to 1 cup) and turn the heat to high. Bring the mixture to a boil. Taste for seasoning and add more salt and pepper, if you like. Transfer to the baking dish.
4. With a rubber spatula spread the mashed potatoes over the meat to cover it completely. Dot with butter.
5. Bake the pie for 30 minutes or until the potatoes are browned and the meat mixture is bubbling at the edges

Carrot and daikon salad

2009-10-14T16:23:00.007-04:00

October 14, 2009

Serves 4

Light vinegared salads, known in Japan as sunomono, can be made with most any vegetable. In Shizuo Tsuji’s “Japanese Cooking: A Simple Art,’’ the author pairs carrot and daikon radish in a light and refreshing dish with a sweet and sour dressing called amazu (the word looks like shorthand for amazing - and it is). Salt shreds of deep orange carrot and white daikon radish to release their liquid, then knead the vegetables to create icicle-like shards of daikon. The dressing is made from mild rice vinegar, sugar, and water heated and then cooled. Toss it with the crunchy vegetables and refrigerate the dish for at least 30 minutes (it’s even more flavorful if left overnight). Traditionally, the salad is served in small plates but add this mixture to a bowl of salad greens and you have an appealing variation.

1 large carrot, cut into 2-inch-by- 1/2-inch matchsticks
1 medium (1 pound) daikon radish, cut into 2-inch-by- 1/2-inch matchsticks
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup unseasoned rice vinegar
1 1/2 tablespoons sugar
1/4 cup water

In a large bowl combine the carrot and daikon radish matchsticks. Add the salt and toss lightly. After several minutes, mix and lightly knead the vegetables with your hands. Working over a colander set in a bowl, gather up the vegetables in your hands and squeeze out the liquid. Rinse and dry the bowl. Place the vegetables in it.
In a glass bowl, mix the vinegar, sugar, and water. Heat in a microwave for 1 minute or until the sugar dissolves. Alternatively, heat the mixture in a small saucepan. Cool to room temperature.
Sprinkle 1 tablespoon of the vinegar mixture onto the vegetables. Mix with your hand and then squeeze the liquid from the vegetables. Discard the liquid.
Add the remaining dressing to the vegetables. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes or for up to two days.

Lobster Cantonese

2009-09-03T12:18:00.006-04:00

(Photos by Debra Samuels for The Boston Globe)

The classic method for Lobster Cantonese calls for chopping the raw crustacean - a scary proposition. Instead, start with a cooked lobster - unconventional, but perfect for squeamish cooks. This recipe is based on one from Irene Kuo’s “The Key to Chinese Cooking,’’ which does begin with live shellfish. Many markets will cook the lobsters for you. Once home, snap the claws and tails off the body. Stir-fry fermented black beans and ground pork with garlic and ginger. The liquid from the cooked lobster becomes part of the tasty sauce; the lobster in its shell protects the meat from turning chewy and still imparts flavor. Prepare ingredients in advance, line them up near the burner, and the cooking time is minimal. The results are frightfully good!

3 cooked lobsters (1 1/4 pounds each)
Juices from lobsters plus chicken stock or water to make 1 1/4 cups
2 tablespoons Chinese rice wine or sake
1/8 teaspoon black pepper
1 1/2 tablespoons canola oil
3 scallions, chopped
1 piece (1 inch) fresh ginger, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, chopped
2 tablespoons fermented black beans, soaked for 5 minutes, drained, and chopped
1/2 pound ground pork
1 tablespoon cornstarch mixed with 2 tablespoons water
1 tablespoon sesame oil
2 eggs, lightly beaten

Over a large bowl, snap off the claws and tails from the lobster (boil the bodies to make lobster stock for seafood stew for another day).
With a lobster cracker, hold a claw over the same bowl and crack down the middle, catching any liquid in the bowl. Twist off the base of the claw and crack in the middle. The meat should stay intact in the shell. Repeat with remaining claws. Hold a lobster tail over the bowl and twist off the base. Lay the tail on a cutting board and with a chef’s knife or cleaver, cut the tail into 3 pieces. Repeat with remaining tails.
Set a strainer over another bowl. Pour the lobster liquid through it. Measure and add enough stock or water to make 1 1/4 cups liquid. Add the rice wine or sake and pepper.
Heat a large wok or deep skillet over high heat for 30 seconds. Add the oil and when it is hot, add the scallions, ginger, garlic, and black beans. Stir-fry for 1 minute. Add the pork and stir-fry 2 minutes or until the pork loses its pink color.
Add the lobster liquid mixture. Bring to a boil. Add the lobster pieces, and cook, tossing with a wide spatula, until lobster is coated with sauce. Cover and continue cooking for 2 minutes.
Lower the heat to medium. Stir the cornstarch mixture. Drizzle it over the lobster mixture. Add the sesame oil and cook, stirring, for 1 minute or until the sauce thickens.
Pour the eggs into the pan in a circular motion. Cook, stirring gently, for 1 minute. Turn off the heat and let the mixture sit for 1 minute more.

One potato Two potato

2009-09-02T16:10:00.004-04:00

Photo by Debra Samuels for the Boston Globe

By Debra Samuels

Globe Correspondent / April 1, 2009

As Lexington resident Norma Currie explains it, she and her siblings did what many children do: "None of us would eat our vegetables," she says. But their mother was smarter than her kids. She cooked the vegetables and mashed them with potatoes. "And we loved them," says Currie, who still makes various versions of the spuds today. Sometimes it accompanies roast chicken or other meats and fish. It's a good way to have your mashed potatoes with less guilt and fewer calories. Carrots add volume and sweetness and their vitamins, of course. Spinach and mashed is another winning combination. Add rinsed spinach leaves to the hot potato water after cooking. Cover the pot and let the spinach sit for 2 minutes. The heat of the water softens the leaves, but they keep their vibrant green color.

Mashed potatoes with carrots

Serves 4

Salt and pepper, to taste
3 medium Yukon Gold or Yellow Finn potatoes (about 3/4 pound), peeled and quartered
2 medium carrots, cut into 2-inch rounds
1 tablespoon butter
1/4 cup milk

In a saucepan of boiling salted water, combine the potatoes and carrots and turn the heat to medium high. Simmer for 10 minutes or until the potatoes and carrots are tender when pierced with a skewer.
Drain the vegetables and transfer to a bowl. Add the butter and milk. Mash with a potato masher until the mixture is smooth. Add salt and pepper

Mashed potatoes with spinach

Serves 4

Salt and pepper, to taste
3 medium potatoes (about 3/4 pound), peeled and quartered
2 cups baby spinach leaves
1 tablespoon butter
1/4 cup milk

In a saucepan of boiling salted water, cook the potatoes over medium-high heat for 10 minutes or until they are tender when pierced with a skewer.
Turn off the heat and add the spinach. Cover and set aside for 2 minutes until the spinach wilts but is still bright green.
Drain the vegetables and transfer to a bowl. Add the butter and milk. Mash with a potato masher until the mixture is smooth. Add salt and pepper.
Adapted from Norma Currie

Spicy Tuna Salad

2009-09-02T15:41:00.007-04:00

photo for Boston Globe by Debra Samuels

Think spicy tuna and a sushi bar comes to mind. But there are other ways to meld rich fish and hot condiments. One is this composed canned tuna salad, made with the same spicy sauce used in those popular sushi rolls. You can make the same dish with shrimp, grilled salmon, smoked salmon, or leftover roast striped bass. The sauce begins with ordinary mayo, to which sesame oil and a few squirts of the Thai hot sauce sriracha are mixed in - enough to make a lip-tingling, faintly pink-colored sauce. Flake white tuna onto peppery arugula, garnish the plates with radishes for even more bite, and toss on a few cucumbers to cool the presentation. Then drizzle with spicy sauce. Not your mother’s tuna salad.

1/4 cup mayonnaise
2 teaspoons dark sesame oil
1 teaspoon sriracha sauce, or more to taste
1 bunch arugula, stems removed
2 cans (6 1/2 ounces each) solid white albacore tuna in water
1 bunch radishes, soaked to remove sand, trimmed, and quartered
2 Armenian or pickling cukes, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
2 scallions, chopped
4 small whole-wheat pita, halved and toasted

1. In a small mixing bowl, stir together the mayonnaise, sesame oil, and sriracha. Taste for seasoning and add more sriracha, if you like.
2. On each of 4 plates, arrange some of the arugula. Divide the tuna among the plates, setting it in a mound on each one. Add radishes and cucumbers.
3. Spoon the sauce over the tuna and sprinkle with scallions. Serve with toasted pita.

Maharashtra fish curry

2009-03-09T08:36:00.002-04:00

In this fish curry from the Maharashtra region in western India, you get both delicate and piquant in one dish. Coconut milk makes the sauce creamy but you get plenty of heat and flavor with a balanced blend of spices. Most Indian cooks toast and grind whole spices - some do this daily - but Renu Dvivedi, an Indian cooking teacher in Greenwich, Conn., and Dubai, says dried spices will work; buy them in small quantities and use them within 6 months. The spices are sauteed initially with onion and green chili pepper. Then stir in the coconut milk, and add thick white fish fillets such as haddock, cod, pollock, or sole, along with zucchini. Tuck the thinner sections of the fish under the thicker parts to create a uniform size for cooking. The fish and vegetable are bathed in a golden, aromatic sauce. Rice rounds out this exotic meal.

1 1/2 pounds white flesh fillets (haddock, cod, pollock, sole)

2 tablespoons oil 1 large onion, finely chopped

1 small green chili, seeded and finely chopped

2 1/2 teaspoons ground cumin 2 teaspoons ground coriander

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper 1/4 teaspoon black pepper, or to taste

2 cloves garlic, finely chopped

2 tablespoons unsweetened coconut flakes

2 tablespoons water

1 teaspoon salt, or to taste

1/2 teaspoon turmeric

1 cup unsweetened coconut milk

1 large zucchini, sliced into 1/2-inch rounds

1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro

1 lemon, cut into slices

1. Tuck the thinner pieces of the fish under the thicker ones to make uniform pieces.

2. In a large skillet over medium heat, heat the oil. Add the onion and chili. Cook, stirring often, for 5 minutes or until the onion is golden.

3. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, combine the cumin, coriander, and cayenne and black peppers. Stir the spices into the skillet with the garlic and coconut flakes. Cook for 2 minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir in the water to form a paste; cook 1 minute more.

4. Add the salt, turmeric, and coconut milk. Bring to a boil. Lower the heat; simmer for 5 minutes.

5. Place the fish in the sauce. Set the zucchini at the edges. Cover and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove the cover and cook 3 minutes more or until the fish is done. Sprinkle with cilantro and garnish with lemons.

Adapted from Renu Dvivedi

Quick mix for chocolate fix

2009-02-16T21:29:00.008-05:00

Photo by Debra Samuels for the Boston Globe

Debra Samuels Globe Correspondent / February 11, 2009

Instant cocoa mixes are made for the moments when you come in from shoveling, can't feel your fingers or toes, and need something hot and nourishing - fast. This easy hot cocoa mix requires only boiling water. To make it, mix nonfat dried milk with high-quality unsweetened cocoa powder and a modest amount of sugar. Dried milk is made from milk that's fortified with vitamins A and D. Carnation brand yields the best results. After you stir your homemade mix into a cup of hot water, add mini marshmallows with a few chocolate chips for extra melting richness.
Turn the cocoa mix into a pudding treat by adding cornstarch. Pudding is one of the first things kids learn to cook, stirring the mixture with a long-handled wooden spoon, waiting for the magic moment when the chocolate liquid turns gooey and the wooden spoon turns into a chocolate lollipop. This pudding firms up in the refrigerator but still has a soft creamy texture. Add chocolate chips to this, too, for an intense kick. You'll defrost completely.

Recipes
Hot cocoa mix
Makes about six 8-ounce servings

1 1/3 cups (one 3.2 ounce packet) nonfat dried milk
1/2 cup unsweetened cocoa powder
1/2 cup sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 cup mini marshmallows
1/4 chocolate chips

1. In a bowl, combine the dried milk, cocoa, sugar and salt . Store in an airtight container.
2. In a separate bowl mix the marshmallows and chocolate chips. Store separately in a plastic zipper bag.
3. Use as directed.

Hot cocoa
Serves 1

1/4 cup cocoa mix (see recipe)
1 cup boiling water
Handful mini marshmallows and chocolate chips

1. In a large mug, combine the cocoa mix and boiling water. Stir until combined.
2. Sprinkle with marshmallows and chocolate chip.

Chocolate pudding mix
Makes about ten 1/2-cup servings

1 1/3 cups (3.2 ounce packet) nonfat dried milk
1/2 cup unsweetened cocoa powder
1/2 cup sugar
1/3 cup cornstarch
1/4 teaspoon salt

1. In a bowl, combine the dried milk, cocoa, sugar, cornstarch, and salt.
2. Store in an airtight container. Use as directed.

Chocolate pudding
Serves 2

1/2 cup chocolate pudding mix (see recipe)
1 cup cold water
1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract
8 bittersweet chocolate chips (optional)

1. Have on hand 2 ramekins or small bowls (1/2-cup capacity each).
2. In a small saucepan over medium heat, combine the pudding mix and water. Cook the mixture, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until it comes to a boil. Continue cooking for 30 seconds.
3. Turn off the heat and add the vanilla and chocolate chips, if using. Take a piece of plastic wrap and set it directly on top of the pudding. This will keep a skin from forming. Let the pudding cool for 15 minutes until it is room temperature. Spoon the pudding into the ramekins or bowls. Refrigerate for 1 hour.

Chinese chicken soup casserole

2009-01-28T13:49:00.007-05:00

Photo By Debra Samuels
Globe Correspondent / January 21, 2009

This Chinese chicken hot pot combines the heartiness of a casserole with a light, warming chicken broth. Slices of fresh ginger root and scallions are two aromatics that signal that this is not Grammy Greenberg's Jewish penicillin. But like hers and other pots of chicken soup, this begins with a whole bird. Here, it's cut up and browned first, which cuts the simmering time to 20 minutes. Add strands of transparent noodles, which float like threads among the pieces of chicken. Soy sauce seasons the broth, along with fresh shiitake mushrooms (or use soaked dried shiitakes and add the soaking liquid to the broth). Serve bowls of steamed white or brown rice beside the brimming bowls of soup. You'll put a smile on any grandmother's face.

Recipe
2 ounces transparent noodles
2 tablespoons canola oil
3 thick slices fresh ginger
3 scallions 2 halved and thinly sliced
1 small onion thinlt sliced
1 frying chicken, cut up ( cut breasts cut into thirds)

1 tablespoon soy sauce
Salt and pepper to taste
3 1/2 cups water
10 fresh shiitake mushrooms, halved
1 small head Chinese (Napa) cabbage, cut into quarters, with stem intact
1. In a medium bowl, combine the noodles and cold water to cover; set aside for 30 minutes.
2. In a large flameproof casserole over high heat, heat the oil for 30 seconds. Add the ginger, scallions, and onion. Cook, stirring constantly, for 1 minute.
3. Add the chicken pieces and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Brown on both sides for 2 minutes.
4. Sprinkle the chicken with soy sauce and continue cooking
for 1 minute. Transfer the
chicken, onion mixture, and juices in the pan to a bowl. Wipe out the pan.
5. Add the water, mushrooms, and cabbage pieces. Nestle the chicken and onion mixture among the vegetables. Tip the juices from the bowl into the pan. Bring to a boil, lower the heat, and cover the pan. Simmer for 20 minutes.
6. Drain the noodles and add to the soup. Cook for 5 minutes more. Taste for seasoning and add more salt or soy sauce, if you like. Return the soup to a boil. Cook for 1 minute.
7. In four large bowls, place a quarter of the cabbage, some of the chicken pieces, and mushrooms. Ladle the broth into the bowls and set the noodles on top. Sprinkle with scallions and more pepper.
Adapted from "The Key to Chinese Cooking."

Kasha varnishkes

2009-01-12T11:43:00.006-05:00

By Debra Samuels, Globe Correspondent December 17, 2008

Serves 8
Eastern-European Jewish immigrants brought kasha varnishkes to this country at the turn of the 20th century. Kasha is roasted buckwheat groats; varnishkes means noodles in Yiddish (bow ties are now classic), and Wolff's Kasha is the brand most cooks use. Mix eggs into uncooked groats to keeps the groats firm. The grains cook in about 10 minutes. Add sauteed mushrooms and let sit for five minutes. The dish goes with beef brisket, or can be a vegetarian entree with more veggies. This is stick-to-your-ribs cuisine.

1 teaspoon salt, and more for the pasta water
8 ounces bow tie pasta
4 tablespoons canola oil
1 large onion, coarsely chopped
2 celery stalks, coarsely chopped
2eggs, beaten to mix
2cups coarse kasha
4cups water
1/2teaspoon pepper, or to taste
10ounces white mushrooms, sliced

1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the bow ties and cook, stirring, for 10 minutes or until the pasta is tender; drain.
2. In a large skillet, heat 3 tablespoons of the oil. Add the onion and celery. Cook, stirring often, for 5 minutes.
3. In a bowl, combine the eggs and kasha. Add the kasha mixture to the onion mixture. Cook, stirring constantly, until the kasha is dry and the grains are separated.
4. Add the water, salt, and pepper. Bring to a boil, cover, and turn the heat to low. Cook for 5 minutes or until all the liquid is absorbed.
5. Meanwhile, in another skillet, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil. Cook the mushrooms for 4 minutes or until their liquid evaporates. Stir the mushrooms into the kasha. Cover and set aside for 5 minutes.
6. Stir in the bow ties. Add more salt and pepper, if you like. Adapted from Wolff's Kasha

Buttermilk pancakes

2009-01-07T16:43:00.001-05:00

Buttermilk was originally made from liquid left over after churning butter. My butter churn is next to the spinning wheel somewhere in the basement.

Today, buttermilk, which has a month long refrigerator life, is made from pasteurized skim milk that is slightly fermented. The thick consistency and slightly sour taste add a light texture and tang to baked goods and salad dressings.

Buttermilk is wonderful and indispensable in pancakes , but unless you make buttermilk pancakes all the time, who keeps a quart of the liquid on hand? That's where powdered buttermilk comes in . Saco makes a cultured powdered blend that you add directly to dry ingredients (as opposed to reconstituting it first). When it's time to mix the liquids you simply substitute water for milk or fresh buttermilk.

You can even make your own pancake mix, which I started doing, beginning with a recipe on the Saco box and adapting it. When it's time for breakfast, take out your own mix, add water and an egg, heat the griddle, and fluffy pancakes will be ready in minutes.

If you're headed to someone's summer house, the pancake mix makes a nice host gift. Package the dry ingredients in a cellophane bag and tie it with ribbon. Add a pancake recipe, a jar of pure maple syrup, a new nonstick skillet, if you're staying more than a night, and you have a practical present. It will last longer than the summer, get put to use on busy school mornings come fall, and you may be invited back next year.

Makes about 10

1 1/2 cups buttermilk pancake mix (see recipe)
3/4 cup water
1 egg
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 tablespoons butter

Directions:

1. In a bowl, stir together the pancake mix, water, egg, and vanilla.

2. In a large skillet, melt the butter. Turn off the heat. Take 1 tablespoon of the melted butter
and stir it into the pancake batter. Let the batter sit for 5 minutes.

3. Reheat the skillet of butter until it begins to foam. With a 1/4 - cup measure, pour pancake batter into the hot pan. Cook until bubbles appear on the surface of the pancake s . With a spatula, flip the pancakes over. Cook for 1 minute more. Serve with syrup or confectioners' sugar.

Buttermilk pancake mix

Makes about 3 cups (enough for 20 pancakes)

2 cups flour
1/2 cup dry buttermilk
1 tablespoon baking soda
1/4 cup sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt

Directions:

1. In a large bowl blend the flour, buttermilk powder, baking soda, sugar, and salt.

2. Store in an airtight container. Adapted from Saco Cultured Buttermilk Blend

Escarole and meatball soup

2008-11-12T17:57:00.001-05:00

Escarole and meatball soup
Serves 4 as a main course

Often referred to as Italian wedding soup, this hearty bowl has been mistranslated for many years. The name, minestra maritata, really means "married soup," which refers to the pleasing combination of vegetables and meatballs. Light but substantial, the soup contains escarole, curly bitter greens, and pork and beef meatballs simmered in homemade or prepared chicken stock. Near the end of cooking add dried pasta -- ditalini, bow ties, orzo -- and top with shredded Parmesan. Add crusty bread and salad and you have a satisfying supper. No license required.

SOUP
8 cups chicken stock
2 carrots, thickly sliced
1 celery stalk, thickly sliced

1. In a soup pot over medium heat, bring the chicken stock to a boil.
2. Lower the heat and add the carrots and celery. Simmer for 30 minutes.

MEATBALLS
1/2 pound ground beef
1/2 pound ground pork
2[1 ]eggS, lightly beaten
1/2 cup chopped parsley
1/4 cup grated Parmesan
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1/2 cup fresh white breadcrumbs
1 teaspoon salt, and more to taste
1/2 teaspoon black pepper, and more to taste
1 head escarole, rinsed and chopped
1/2 cup small pasta (ditalini, bow ties, orzo)
Extra shredded Parmesan (for sprinkling)

1. In a bowl, combine the beef, pork, egg, parsley, Parmesan, garlic, breadcrumbs, salt, and pepper. With your hands, shape small balls (about 1 tablespoon each). You should get about 40.
2. Add the meatballs and escarole to the simmering soup. Cover and cook for 15 minutes.
3. Add the pasta and cook, uncovered, 10 minutes more or until it is tender but still has some bite. Taste for seasoning, add more salt and pepper, if you like. Ladle into bowls and sprinkle with Parmesan. Adapted from Alice Taverna

Layered omelet with ham and cheese

2008-06-18T16:25:00.001-04:00

Summer stretches ahead with its picnics, beach days, weekend guests, and impromptu suppers. Often that means looking for ways to feed friends and family without much fuss. This colorful layered omelet can be prepared ahead of time and refrigerated overnight. It leaves the kitchen cool and the cook unflustered. Begin by making three thin egg and scallion omelets, then layer them with a dill-flecked mayonnaise and ham, cheddar cheese, and slices of crunchy cukes. After you get the hang of it, you can experiment with thinly sliced tomatoes and fresh basil leaves, use turkey instead of ham, or replace the mayonnaise with sour cream and chives. At the table, cut the round into wedges and pass the icy drinks.

Ingredients: Serves 6

1/4 cup mayonnaise
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill
4 eggs
1 teaspoon salt
1 scallion (white and green parts separated), each finely chopped
1 tablespoon canola oil
10 slices cheddar cheese
1/2 English cucumber, cut into 30 thin slices
8 slices honey baked ham, cut in half

Directions:

1. Have on hand a serving dish with a 9-inch flat surface.

2. In a small bowl mix the mayonnaise, mustard, and dill; set aside.

3. In another bowl, beat the eggs, salt, and white part of the scallions.

4. Heat a 9-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the oil and heat for 30 seconds. With a paper towel, wipe most of the oil from the pan. Reduce the heat to medium-low. Using a 1/3-cup measure, pour the egg mixture into the skillet, swirling it around so it covers the bottom of the pan. Let it sit for 1 minute or until it sets. Carefully slip a spatula under the omelet and flip it over. Let it cook for another 30 seconds. Turn it out onto the counter.

5. Repeat the omelet layer 2 more times, turning them out in a stack.

6. Using a small offset spatula, spread about 1 tablespoon of the mayonnaise dressing onto 1 layer of the omelet. Set it on the dish. Lay 5 or 6 pieces of cheese on top of the omelet to cover the entire surface. Add half the cucumber slices to cover the cheese completely. Then add half the ham.

7. Spread another omelet round with 1 tablespoon of the mayonnaise. Set it, mayonnaise down, on the ham. Add the remaining cheese, cucumbers, and ham.

8. Spread the omelet round with the remaining mayonnaise. Set it, mayonnaise down, on the ham. Lay a piece of plastic wrap directly onto the surface of the top layer. Cover the entire dish with foil and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or for up to overnight. Sprinkle the green scallion on top. Cut into wedges.

Debra Samuels

Baby bok choy

2008-05-14T16:40:00.000-04:00

Serves 4

Baby bok choy, steamed with slivers of fresh garlic and plenty of ginger, is ready in about 10 minutes and produces a flavorful dish of mini green bundles. The small greens are often used in Chinese dishes as a bed for tofu or scallops, but this mild member of the cabbage family can stand on its own cute little stalks. Bok choy (in Cantonese it's pronounced pak-choi) is sometimes called white cabbage or Chinese chard. Each bunch consists of white stalks with green leaves at the top; they're entirely edible. Larger bok choy are sliced for stir-fries; the babies, each between 4 and 6 inches long, are more tender and can be served whole or halved. Both have a celery-like crunch with a mild cabbage flavor. Very young baby bok choy can even be eaten raw.

8 bunches baby bok choy
1 tablespoon canola oil
2 slices fresh ginger, cut into thin matchsticks
2 cloves garlic, cut into thin matchsticks
Salt and pepper, to taste
1/2 cup water, and more if necessary
1 tablespoon soy sauce

Directions:

1. Halve the bok choy lengthwise.

2. In a wok or medium skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat for 30 seconds. Add the ginger and garlic and stir-fry for 20 seconds. Add the bok choy and salt. Stir-fry for 1 minute.

3. Add the water, bring it to a boil, and cover with a lid. Let the vegetables steam for 2 minutes. Remove the lid and continue to cook for 1 minute or until the water evaporates.

4. Add the soy sauce and cook for 30 seconds more. Sprinkle with pepper.

Caponata

2008-03-26T16:36:00.002-04:00

Makes about 2 cups

Caponata is the sweet, sour, and salty Sicilian eggplant appetizer that looks like a relish and often comes as one of the tastes in an antipasti course. The dish begins with sauteed eggplant cubes, which lend their deep purple color to the mixture, and is cooked briefly with chopped green olives, cherry tomatoes, and golden raisins. The tangy spread also contains vinegar, sugar, raisins, and pine nuts, a combination that reflects the influence of Arab cuisine on the Sicilian table. The classic version we have adapted here from "Treasures of Sicilian Cuisine," by Paolo Salerno et al., calls for deep-frying the eggplant, but we give it a saute in olive oil, which lends a nice caramelized taste. Celery and capers make the caponata chunky, and the final effect is jewel-like. Spoon it on slices of crusty bread or over fillets of fish before roasting.

5 tablespoons olive oil
1 large eggplant, cut into 1-inch cubes
2 celery ribs, cut into 1-inch pieces
1 medium onion, chopped
1/2 cup green olives with pimento (preferably Sicilian), chopped
1 1/2 cups cherry tomatoes, quartered
1 tablespoon capers
2 tablespoons pine nuts
1/4 cup golden raisins
5 tablespoons red- or white-wine vinegar
2 tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper

Directions:

1. In a large skillet over medium heat, heat 3 tablespoons of the olive oil. Add the eggplant and cook, stirring often, for 8 minutes or until it is softened but not mushy. Transfer to a bowl.

2. In the same skillet, add the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil. When it is hot, cook the celery and onion for 3 minutes.

3. Add the olives, cherry tomatoes, capers, pine nuts, and raisins. Mix well and cook for 2 minutes.

4. Add the vinegar and sugar. Let the mixture come to a boil. Return the eggplant to the pan and add salt and pepper. Turn down the heat and simmer for 3 minutes until the eggplant is cooked through.

5. Transfer to a bowl and leave to cool to room temperature.

Debra Samuels

Spaghetti lasagna

2008-01-16T16:38:00.000-05:00

If there was ever a universal crowd pleaser, it's lasagna. This dish is a variation on the layers of wide noodles and tomato sauce that usually go into the dish. Here spaghetti, tomato sauce, and mozzarella cheese are stacked in a dish, then baked until the top turns golden. Cut big squares and serve with a salad and crusty bread. Bring it to football-watching get-togethers, serve it to a table of teens, or take it to a rented winter vacation house for nourishment after skiing. It can be transported, reheated, and frozen, all without harm.

Serves 8

Olive oil (for the dish)
2 teaspoons salt, and more to taste
1 pound spaghetti
4 tablespoons olive oil
1 large onion, coarsely chopped
2 cloves garlic
2 cans (28 ounces) whole imported tomatoes, crushed in a bowl
1 teaspoon crushed red pepper
2 teaspoons dried oregano
1 tablespoon brown sugar
1/2 teaspoon black pepper, or to taste
1 pound shredded mozzarella
1/4 cup grated Parmesan (for sprinkling)

Directions:

1. Set the oven at 350 degrees. Have on hand a deep 9-by-13-inch baking dish. Oil the dish.

2. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the spaghetti and cook, stirring occasionally, for 8 minutes or until the noodles are not quite tender. Strain into a colander and transfer to a bowl. With a scissors, snip the spaghetti in several places. Sprinkle with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Toss well and set aside.

3. In a large saucepan, heat the remaining 3 tablespoons of oil. Add the onion and garlic, and cook, stirring often, for 3 minutes. Add the tomatoes, red pepper, oregano, brown sugar, a generous pinch of salt, and black pepper. Bring the sauce to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 20 minutes or until the mixture thickens. Taste for seasoning and add more salt and pepper, if you like.

4. Ladle enough tomato sauce in the bottom of the baking dish to make a thin layer. With tongs, add a layer of spaghetti, using one-third of the mixture, tucking spaghetti into the corners of the dish. Cover with sauce, one-third of the mozzarella, then continue layering, ending with Parmesan on top.

5. Set the dish on a large rimmed baking sheet. Bake for 30 minutes or until sauce is bubbling at the edges and the top is browned.

A warming bowl

2007-12-12T22:00:00.003-05:00

Split Pea Soup
Isestrasse Market Hamburg, Germany
Split pea soup is just what you need when the chill goes right through your coat. In the port city of Hamburg last month, it was sunny but cold as I walked through the Isestrasse market in the center of town. German markets in winter boast stands brimming with every variety of cabbage and potato imaginable. There are mobile bakeries, butchers, fishmongers, sausage sellers, and among them, all kinds of eateries. These hearty folks aren't fair-weather vendors, I decided, so I wandered around until I found lunch. I wanted what two bundled up ladies were eating: big bowlfuls of steaming split pea soup laden with plenty of slices of knockwurst in the thick porridge. I approached the counter and used my sparse knowledge of Yiddish to ask for a bowl. That produced lots of laughing from the beefy proprietor, but no soup. I wanted soup and I was sure he would sell me some, if only he understood what I was after. I knew I shouldn't point, but point I did - at the women and their lunch. Success. I took my bowl and settled in beside them, standing in the bracing cold coming off the Baltic Sea, with my bowl set in front of me on a high bistro table. I sipped spoonfuls of the thick, nourishing mixture. The green puree, with its hammy stock and smoked wurst, also had nuggets of sweet carrots. A piece of crusty bread helped soak up every last bit.

Split pea soup
Serves 6

The flavor of this soup improves on standing, but it thickens. To make a day or two in advance, stir water, about 1/4 cup at a time, into the soup before reheating.

3 tablespoons canola oil
1 pound frankfurters or knockwurst, cut into 2-inch slices
1 smoked ham hock ( 1/2 pound) 1 large onion, coarsely chopped
1 pound dried split peas 6 cups water, or more if necessary
3 large carrots, cut into 2-inch pieces
Salt, to taste
1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

1. In a large pot, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the frankfurter or wurst slices and cook, stirring often, for 5 minutes. With a slotted spoon, remove the meat from the pan; set it aside.

2. Add the ham hock and cook, stirring often, for 3 minutes more, to brown the hock on all sides. Remove it from the pan.

3. Add the onion and cook, stirring often, for 3 minutes. Add the split peas, and stir to coat them with the oil. Return the ham hock to the pan.

4. Pour in the water and bring to a boil. Cover the pan and cook the mixture for 10 minutes on medium heat. Remove the lid and use a spoon to skim the foam from the surface of the soup.

5. Reduce the heat to low and add the carrots. Place the cover slightly askew on the pot and simmer for 45 minutes. Stir occasionally to keep the soup from burning on the bottom as it thickens.
6. Remove the lid and add the frankfurter slices. Simmer for 15 minutes more, stirring occasionally, or until the split peas have dissolved into a smooth thick puree.

7. Remove the ham hock and set the meat aside. When it is cool enough to handle, trim the fat from the bone. Cut the meat into strips. Add them to the soup with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil and ladle the soup into bowls.

Crudite Platter with Spicy Miso Dip

2007-11-07T16:28:00.001-05:00

If you're hosting or contributing to a party and looking for an appetizer, a crudite platter is always welcome. For years, Americans had a mundane approach to this French tradition by dipping veggie sticks such as carrots and celery into ordinary mayonnaise-based sauces. Raw broccoli and asparagus spears joined the usual suspects, and bowls of Russian dressing were displaced by more complex flavors such as blue cheese or mango salsa. The look changed too. It went from toothpicked vegetables and cheese cubes affixed to heads of cauliflower - and resembling alien spacecraft - to elegant displays on silver platters or earthenware pottery. But still the veggies remained a little ordinary.
This combination offers a variety of taste: bitter radicchio, buttery endive, licorice-laced fennel, crunchy red or green cabbages, and peppery radishes make a colorful display of vegetables with character. The vegetables are cut into wedges, each with a piece of core intact, which helps them hold their natural shape and provides an easy pick-up spot.
For the dipping sauce, combine aka miso, the dark reddish-brown salty bean paste, with sriracha, the fiery Southeast Asian chili sauce. These are softened by honey and apple juice. Sesame oil gives the dip a toasty taste with a velvety finish. You haven't done any heavy lifting, and your dish may be the hit of the party. --DEBRA SAMUELS

Ingredients: Serves 8

VEGETABLES

1 small head radicchio
2 small Belgian endives
1 small red or green cabbage
1 small bulb fresh fennel, stalks and hard layer removed
1 bunch radishes, green stems intact

Directions:

1. Halve the radicchio lengthwise without removing the core. Then cut thin wedges, slicing through the core and leaving it intact. Rinse under cold water and pat dry with paper towels. Transfer the wedges to a serving platter. Do the same with the endives, cabbage, and fennel.

2. Wipe the radishes with a wet paper towel. Cut all but 1 inch of the green stems. Slice the radishes in half lengthwise so each piece has some stem. Quarter large radishes. Transfer to the platter.

DIP

1/2 cup dark aka miso (or regular tawny-color miso)
1/4 cup apple juice
1 tablespoon honey
2 tablespoons sesame oil
1 tablespoon sriracha hot sauce, or to taste

Directions:

1. In a bowl, whisk together the miso, apple juice, honey, sesame oil, and hot sauce.

2. Transfer to a small bowl and serve with the vegetables. Adapted from Taekyung Chung

Stashing cooked rice

2007-10-30T16:41:00.001-04:00

Watching squirrels gathering and stashing nuts for the winter reminds me of Japanese and Korean friends filling their rice cookers to maximum capacity to make small packets of cooked rice for the freezer. When it's time to eat, they microwave the rice until it's steaming hot.

Recently, a Korean guest did just that. She made a mixture of short-grain white and brown rice, and after it was cooked, added black beans (at home she would have used black soy beans). With a salad and soup it is a perfect light meal with little effort.

Short grain rices work best because they are sticky and hold together when packed. The cooking methods are completely different than the long grain varieties. Cook the grains separately because brown takes twice the water and twice the time of white.

When the rice is done, stir both together, add canned black beans, and freeze the mixture in plastic wrap sprinkled with a little salt. Many Asian cooks don't add salt to the cooking water because it detracts from the delicacy of the rice. The little packets will be welcome on a busy day as a nutritious side dish for supper or a quick lunch at the office. When it's time to forage, just open the freezer door.

Brown and white rice with black beans

2007-10-03T16:33:00.000-04:00

Makes about 9 cups or enough to serve 9

To achieve white rice and brown rice with perfect textures, cook them separately. If you prefer to serve them separately, you'll have about 6 cups of white (to serve 6) and 3 cups of brown (to serve 3).

WHITE RICE

2 cups short-grain white rice
2 cups water

Directions:

1. Put the rice into a large mixing bowl and set it in a clean sink. Run cold water into the bowl, and with your hand, swish the rice around, then carefully drain the water into the sink. Repeat this about 5 times until the water runs clear. Fill the bowl of rice with water to cover - about 3 cups. Set aside for 20 minutes; the rice will become white and plump. Pour the rice through a strainer and set it aside again for 10 minutes.

2. In a medium saucepan combine the rice and the 2 cups of water. Cover with a lid. Cook the rice on medium-high heat for 10 minutes. Turn the heat down to low and simmer for 10 minutes or until the rice is tender (total cooking time is 20 minutes).

3. Turn the heat off and let the rice sit for 10 minutes more.

BROWN RICE

1 cup short-grain brown rice
2 cups water

Directions:

1. Put the rice into a large mixing bowl and set it in a clean sink. Run cold water into the bowl, and with your hand, swish the rice around, then carefully drain the water into the sink. Repeat this about 3 times until the water runs clear. Fill the bowl of rice with water to cover - about 2 cups. Let soak for 20 minutes. Pour the rice through a strainer and set it aside for 10 minutes.

2. In a medium saucepan combine the rice and the 2 cups of water. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to low, and cover with a tight-fitting lid. Cook for 50 minutes or until the rice is tender.

3. Turn the heat off and let the rice sit for 10 minutes more.

BEANS

1 can (15 ounces) black beans, rinsed and drained
1 tablespoon kosher salt

Directions:

1. In a large bowl, combine the brown and white rice. With a spatula or wooden spoon, fold them together, taking care not to mash them. Add the black beans and mix well to distribute the beans evenly throughout the rice.

2. Tear off an 8-inch square of plastic wrap. Set it on the counter. Sprinkle the surface with salt. Lightly wet a 1-cup measure. Fill the cup with rice and set it on the wrap. Bring one end of the wrap over the rice, pressing lightly, to form a thick pancake. Continue wrapping until the rice is enclosed. Repeat with the remaining rice (each packet yields 1 serving). Freeze them in a large zipper bag.

3. To reheat: Without defrosting the packets, unwrap as many servings as you need and place in a large microwave-safe bowl. Cover with parchment paper. Microwave on high for about 4 minutes or until rice is heated through. Break into the center with a fork to make sure it is hot. If necessary, cover and microwave for an additional 1 to 2 minutes.

Debra Samuels

Healthy and Cool Tofu Sandwich

2007-06-20T16:46:00.001-04:00

Tofu, the sensational block packed with protein that is popular in Korean, Japanese, and Chinese cuisines, is no longer exclusively available in Asian markets. Unfortunately, while the widely distributed brands like Nasoya are good, they don't have the same strikingly fresh taste as tofu from Asian grocers.

When you go to pick out a variety, soft or silken tofu is good for soups or eating in its pure state with just a bit of soy sauce and grated ginger. Firmer varieties are best for stir fries and for using in dishes where the white block is cut and reshaped, as it is here.

A towering version of this tofu sandwich recipe was created by a Japanese cooking teacher for a class on contemporary Japanese cuisine. In this recipe, the tofu is cut into 2-inch rounds with a cookie cutter, then layered with chopped smoked salmon and coarsely mashed avocado. On top, a shrimp half and some edamame are the garnish.

The sandwich includes two rounds of tofu, rather than the tower of the original recipe. The finished dish is beautiful, healthy, and cooling, with a complex set of creamy, salty, and buttery-rich flavors. Whisk soy sauce and olive oil to make a vinaigrette that blends elements of Eastern and Western cuisines.

Instead of a cookie cutter, you can also use a small can. Cut off the top and bottom and press down any jagged edges with the back of a spoon. The can will act as a mold to hold the
ingredients together as you stack the intriguing layers

Recipe
Makes 2

Use Nasoya or House brand tofu (the firm variety).

1 block (14 ounces) firm tofu
1/4 pound smoked salmon
4 tablespoons olive oil, or more to taste
3 tablespoons lemon juice
Salt and pepper, to taste
1 ripe avocado
1/4 cup shelled fresh or frozen edamame
1 cooked shrimp, sliced in half along the back
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 teaspoon sugar

Directions:

1. Have on hand a deep 2-inch plain round cookie cutter or any small can about the same size.

2. Place the tofu on a plate and let sit for 20 minutes to drain the excess liquid. Tip off the liquid. With the cutter, use a twisting motion to slowly cut into the tofu, making one large tofu cylinder. With a sharp knife, cut that cylinder in half horizontally. Cut each half in half again to make 4 circles.

3. With a chef's knife, chop the salmon finely. In a bowl, combine the salmon, 1 tablespoon of the olive oil, 1 tablespoon of the lemon juice and several generous twists of pepper. If the mixture seems dry, drizzle it with a little more olive oil; set aside.

4. Cut the avocado in half and remove the pit. Scoop out the flesh and place on a cutting board. With a chef's knife, chop the avocado.

5. In a medium bowl, combine the avocado with 1 tablespoon olive oil, 1 tablespoon lemon juice, salt, and pepper.

6. Place 1 tofu circle into the cutter. With a spoon, add a 1/2-inch layer of the salmon mixture. Press it evenly with the back of the spoon. Repeat with the avocado mixture. Top with a circle of tofu. Carefully lift the biscuit cutter from the stack. Slip a small metal spatula under the sandwich and transfer to a plate. Repeat with remaining ingredients. (Serve leftover salmon and avocado on crackers.)

7. Bring a saucepan of water to a boil, drop in the edamame beans. Cook for 1 minute. Drain, rinse with cold water, and pat dry with paper towels.

8. Garnish the sandwiches with the edamame and a shrimp half.

9. In a small bowl, whisk the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil with the remaining 1 tablespoon lemon juice, soy sauce, and sugar. Drizzle a little of the dressing on each sandwich and serve the rest separately.

Strawberry napoleon, deconstructed

2007-06-13T16:45:00.000-04:00

Some desserts, like one I was served recently in Italy, are stunning on the plate. In this case, triangles of puff pastry were set into a pool of vanilla custard sauce. Tiny strawberries were strewn around the dish, which was decorated with zig zags of chocolate.

In fact, this impressive confection is a deconstructed napoleon, the multilayered classic made with three rectangles of puff pastry sandwiched with pastry cream, often with fruit, too. But when you eat this typically French sweet, your fork moves through the top layer of pastry, sending the cream oozing in all directions.

So the modern Italian version was beautiful and practical. You can re-create the dish using frozen puff pastry cut into squares and making vanilla custard sauce.

The sauce can be tricky. Use a heavy bottomed saucepan and don't leave the stove. A few extra seconds on the heat can give you a curdled mass. If that happens, quickly pour the custard into a blender and whir it. That may bring the sauce back.

On the plate, you'll need a spoon to scrape up every bit of sauce. Unless you want to lick the plates. We couldn't do that at the restaurant in Italy. But home is another matter.

Recipe
Serves 6

1 sheet Pepperidge Farm frozen puff pastry (still frozen)
1 1/2 cups whole milk
1 vanilla bean, split or 1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract
4 egg yolks
1/3 cup granulated sugar
Extra granulated sugar (for sprinkling)
1 cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons confectioners' sugar
2 tablespoons Marsala wine or sherry
1 pint fresh strawberries, hulled and halved (or quartered if large)

Directions:

1. Set the oven at 400 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Transfer the pastry to a cutting board. Set aside for 15 minutes.

2. Make 4 vertical cuts and 4 horizontal cuts in the pastry to form 25 2-inch squares. Separate the squares and return them to the sheet. Bake them for 12 minutes or until browned. Leave to cool.

3. In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, combine the milk and vanilla bean, if using. Heat over medium heat just until it is scalded. Turn off the heat and let the pan sit for 5 minutes. Remove the vanilla bean. With the tip of a knife, scrape the seeds into the milk.

4. In a bowl with a wooden spoon, stir the yolks and sugar. Slowly pour half the milk into the egg mixture, stirring. Return the egg mixture to the remaining milk in the saucepan. Cook the custard on medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens enough to coat the back of the spoon. The mixture should not boil.

5. If using vanilla extract, add it now. Sprinkle the custard with extra granulated sugar to prevent a skin from forming. Leave to cool. Cover and refrigerate until cold.

6. In an electric mixer, beat the cream and confectioners' sugar until the cream forms soft peaks. Add the Marsala or sherry and continue beating until the cream is stiff. Fold half the cream into the custard sauce.

7. Pour a spoonful of sauce into each of 6 shallow plates, then add 3 squares of pastry, and some berries. Repeat the layers, garnishing with cream.

Salmon Mousse with Sour Cream Dill Sauce

2007-05-16T16:48:00.000-04:00

If you're hosting a crowd for a graduation party or wedding shower, you might want to turn the oven off and keep things light. Stash away the stew and lasagna recipes for fall -- it will be here soon enough. A flavorful fresh salmon mousse makes an elegant addition to the buffet table or offer it as a spread during the cocktail hour.

Similar recipes to this have been around for decades and they often call for canned salmon, which was all that many cooks could buy at the time. Fresh salmon gives the mousse a subtler flavor. If you prefer canned salmon, it has to be scraped of its dark skin and picked over for bones. A skinless, boneless salmon fillet can be microwaved with lemon juice in less than 10 minutes.

There is just enough gelatin in the mousse to make the mixture set without becoming rubbery. Beat heavy cream and fold it into the salmon puree for an airy texture. Then pour it into a mold before chilling.

In the '50s, the mold you used would have been fish-shaped, and once turned out, slices of olives would form the eyes, thin slices of cucumber the scales, and dill fronds a tail. Today, use any ring or loaf pan, or individual molds, and skip the hokey fish theme. But scatter similar garnishes -- sliced cucumbers, quartered cherry tomatoes, and fresh dill -- around the turned-out mousse.
Add a basket of sliced French bread and plain English crackers. To complete the buffet, make a crunchy grain salad, such as tabbouleh; steamed asparagus, drizzled with olive oil and lemon juice and served at room temperature; and deviled eggs. Arrange your menu on platters, tuck it all into the fridge, then hang up your apron, and join your own party.

Recipe
Serves 8

MOUSSE

1 1/4 pounds skinless, boneless salmon
6 tablespoons cold water
1 envelope unflavored gelatin
1/2 cup boiling water
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1/2 cup mayonnaise
1 teaspoon hot sauce
1/4 teaspoon paprika
1 tablespoon grated onion
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon capers
1/2 cup heavy cream, beaten until stiff

Directions:

1. Have on hand one mold, loaf pan, or individual molds (total capacity 5 cups).

2. In a microwave-safe dish, place the salmon and 4 tablespoons of the water. Cover with parchment paper and microwave on high for 8 minutes. If the salmon is not firm, microwave for 2 minutes more. With a slotted metal spatula, remove the salmon from the dish.

3. In a bowl, sprinkle the gelatin over the remaining 2 tablespoons cold water. Set aside for 5 minutes.

4. Pour the boiling water over the gelatin mixture and stir until it dissolves completely.

5. In a food processor, combine the gelatin mixture, lemon, mayonnaise, hot sauce, paprika, onion, and salt. Pulse several times.

6. Add half the salmon mixture and pulse until smooth. Add the remaining salmon with the capers. Pulse several times until complete ly blended. Transfer to a bowl.

7. Stir 1 large spoonful of the whipped cream into the salmon mixture. Fold in the remaining cream.

8. Moisten a paper towel and wring it out. Wipe the inside of your mold or molds. Add the mixture to the mold, cover, and refrigerate for several hours or over night.

SAUCE AND GARNISH

1 1/2 cups sour cream
1 tablespoon lemon juice
2 teaspoons sugar
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill
1/2 pint cherry tomatoes, quartered
1 pickling cucumber, thinly sliced
Extra fresh dill leaves (for garnish)

Directions:

1. In a small bowl, whisk the sour cream and lemon juice until the mixture is smooth.

2. Add the sugar, salt, and dill. Cover and refrigerate.

3. To unmold the salmon mousse, run a thin-bladed knife carefully between the mousse and the mold. Invert a plate onto the mold. With your hand on top of the plate, flip the mold and plate over.

4. Dampen a dish towel with hot water; wring it dry. Place the hot towel on the mold for several seconds to loosen the contents. Give the mold a gentle shake. You should hear the mousse release. Lift the mold from the mousse.

5. Garnish with dill, cherry tomatoes, and cucumbers. Serve with French bread and sour cream sauce.

Brazilian breakfast

2007-03-07T16:51:00.000-05:00

When Sandra Silva, a native of Sao Paulo, Brazil, has a crowd for brunch at her home, she serves a dish she calls Café Brasil or Brazilian breakfast. Instead of laboriously making eggs individually, like a home-based short-order cook, she has perfected a dish that can be prepared all at once for four, slipped into the oven, and then served piping hot. And there's drama from egg whites whipped into a meringue and then lightly toasted. Ordinary Sunday brunch becomes a fiesta.

First Silva slices French bread, then it is toasted and lightly buttered. A slice of cheese just covers the bread. The eggs are separated, and the whites are quickly whipped into a meringue and mounded onto the toast. The yolk stays protected in its half shell. With the back of a spoon, Silva hollows out a little indentation in the meringue and carefully sets the yolk into its airy cradle. Then she lines four, or even a dozen, onto a baking sheet and bakes until the meringue is light brown, about 12 minutes, before placing the hot breakfast on individual plates. Serve with morsels of crispy bacon. As your guests slide their forks into the yolk, it bursts into yellow rays -- just like the morning sunshine.—

Recipe

Serves 4

4 eggs, separated
1 1/2 -inch thick slices of French bread, toasted
Butter (for toast)
4 slices of cheese (cheddar or Muenster )
8 slices of bacon
Salt and pepper

Directions:

1. Set the oven at 350 degrees . Have on hand a large mixing bowl. Carefully break an egg in half and tip egg white into the mixing bowl. Keep the yolk in its half shell, propped against a cutting board, until ready to use. Repeat with remaining eggs.

2. Spread butter onto warm toast. Place toast on a baking sheet.

3. Place one slice of cheese on each piece of toast.

4. With a n electric hand beater or wire whisk, whip the egg whites into peaks.

5. With a spoon or rubber spatula scoop out one quarter of the meringue and mound it on top of the cheese. Spread the meringue all around to cover the surface of the cheese, keeping a slightly higher mound in the middle.

6. With the back of a spoon, make an indentation into the center of the meringue just deep enough to hold the yolk.

7. Slip an egg yolk into each "cradle."

8. Place the baking sheet into the oven for 12 minutes, or until the meringue is lightly browned and the egg has set. Cooking time also depends on how loose or firm you like your eggs.

9. While the eggs are baking, place bacon slices into a skillet and fry until crispy, about 5 minutes. Drain on paper towels and cut into small squares.

10. To serve: divide the bacon among the 4 plates. Set a baked meringue toast on each plate. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and garnish with a few cherry tomatoes.

Adapted from Sandra Silva